Can I install a fuel pressure gauge inside my car in the dash?

For safety reasons, all fuel pressure gauges must be mounted outside of the vehicle, unless you use a fuel pressure isolator. In low pressure applications (0-15 PSI) we offer fuel pressure gauges that include the isolator and 4 ft. of braided line between the gauge and the isolator.

The isolator keeps any fuel inside the engine compartment behind the firewall and not in the passenger compartment.

Another option is to use the new full-sweep electric fuel pressure gauge.  Available are 0-15 PSI and 0-100 PSI electric fuel pressure gauges in most of our popular lines.  

Can I install a pressure or temp. gauge on my import vehicle?

Metric adapters are available in the accessory line. It is very likely there is an adapter for your application. First determine the metric thread specification by referencing auto repair manuals or contact your local import car service department.

What type of battery do I need?

A wet cell or gel type battery is required for proper operation. Use of a dry cell battery, such as a flashlight or lantern battery, is not recommended and may damage the gauge.  

Will an Auto Meter fuel level gauge work with my existing stock sender?

Fuel level gauges are designed to work with specific sending units that vary with different automobile manufacturers. Auto Meter offers gauge models for use with existing senders on most cars. Also a sending unit (model 3262) is available to work with certain model Auto Meter fuel level gauges. If you want to use your existing sender and are uncertain about your type of sending unit, an ohm reading will need to be taken. To test your sending unit, first locate the wire coming from the sending unit. Once located, two-ohm readings should be taken; one with fuel tank full. To properly take an ohm reading, disconnect the wire to the sender then connect the positive lead from the ohmmeter to the sender terminal and the negative lead to a good ground.                     

Voltmeter vs. Ammeter

Which is better for monitoring a vehicle's electrical system - a Voltmeter or an Ammeter?

Short answer: A voltmeter, by far. Electrical guru Mark Hamilton of M.A.D. Enterprises points out that amperage is a measure of current flow, so an ammeter is actually a "flow meter" that's intended to measure current flow to the battery (under normal conditions) or discharge from the battery (in the case of alternator system failure). On a typical flow meter, all output must be directed through the device to obtain an accurate reading. In the ammeter's case, that means all the alternator output used to recharge the battery must first be routed through the ammeter under the dash. Which requires a heavy-gauge cable and presents a possible fire hazard. And the ammeter itself must be able to handle all this current flow, so it must have a higher current rating than the alternator's maximum rated output.

All this might be worth the hassle if the ammeter produced reliable information. But the ammeter can only measure the amount of current output to the battery for recharging purposes: When the alternator recharges a "low" battery, the ammeter indicates a high charge rate; with a fully charged battery the voltage regulator reduces alternator output, and the ammeter is supposed to indicate a very low charge rate. But how can you really tell the regulator has reduced alternator output because the battery is fully charged? Maybe a diode in the alternator rectifier failed, or the alternator belt slipped after it warmed up, just as if the battery were fully charged. Or maybe the meter indicates a medium charge rate most of the time-does the battery want this much or could the voltage regulator be overcharging the battery?

On the other hand, a voltmeter works like a fuel pressure gauge-but instead of measuring fluid in psi, the voltmeter measures electrical system pressure in volts. Just like a fuel pressure gauge, a voltmeter only needs to tap into a circuit; all the fuel (or electricity) does not have to detour through the gauge itself. Voltmeter installation is easy, quick, and safe: It hooks up to a fused, ignition-switched "off/on" source and does not require any modification of the circuit used to recharge the battery or any part of the alternator/regulator system. In short, the voltmeter installed at the dash will be a stand-alone circuit.

The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 14.0 to 14.5 volts-and this is reported directly by the voltmeter. In the event of alternator-system failure, voltage will be low and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an "overcharge" condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone. In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter's readings as can happen with an ammeter.